Formulation and Evaluation of Stable Aqueous Extract of Polyherbal Multipurpose Face Cream

K. Atchuta Kumar¹*, Praveen Kumar Uppala², J.B. Radha Devi², Murali Krishna. B²

¹Principal and Professor, Bhaskara Institute of Pharmacy, Affiliated to Andhra University, Vizianagaram

²Assistant Professor, Bhaskara Institute of Pharmacy, Affiliated to Andhra University, Vizianagaram

*Corresponding Author E-mail: atchut_kandukuri@rediffmail.com

ABSTRACT:

Face cream is a cosmetic cream applied to face to improve the complexion Main objective is to prepare and evaluate a stable poly herbal multipurpose face cream which is made by the aqueous extract of different herbs such as Vetiveria zizanioides, Crocus sativus, Symplocos racemosa, Pterocarpus santalinus, Rubia cordifolia, Chamaecostus cuspidatus,  Cinnamomum tamala, Butea monosperma, Curcuma caesia, Brassica nigra Koch, Aganosoma hiyne, Mesua ferrae, Ficus Benghalensis, Glycerrhizia glabra, Mesua ferrae, Laccifer lacca and formulated different formulations by varying the polymers and base compositions.  The evaluations of all formulations (F1 toF5) were done on different parameters like organoleptic properties, pH and stability etc. Formulations F1 to F5 good consistency, homogeneity, appearance, pH, no evidence of phase separation and ease of removal. Stability studies for conducted for all these formulation and gave good results.

KEYWORDS: Cosmetic cream, Herb, Formulation, Stability.

INTRODUCTION:

The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “kosm tikos” meaning having the power, arrange, skill in decorating.⁽¹⁾ The origin of cosmetics forms a continuous narrative throughout the history of man as they developed. The man in prehistoric times 3000BC used colours for decoration to attract the animals that he wished to hunt and also the man survived attack from the enemy by colouring his skin and adorned his body for protection to provoke fear in an enemy (whether man or animal).The origin of cosmetics were associated with hunting, fighting, religion and superstition and later associated with medicine.⁽²⁾ The knowledge finally dissociated from medicine and finally to pharmacy.

The man from ancient time had the magic tip towards impressing others with their looks at the time there were no fairness creams or any cosmetics surgeries to modify the appearance. The skin and hair beauty of individuals depends on the health, habits, routine job, climatic conditions and maintenance. The skin due to excessive exposure to heat will dehydrate during summer and causes wrinkle, freckles, blemishes, pigmentation and sunburns. The extreme winter cause damages to the skin in the form of cracks, cuts, maceration and infections. The skin diseases are common among all age groups and can be due to exposure towards microbes, chemical agents, biological toxin present in the environment, and also to some extend due to malnutrition.⁽³⁾

The only factor they had to rely on was the knowledge of nature compiled in the ayurveda. The science of ayurveda had utilized many herbs and floras to make cosmetics for beautification and protection from external affects. The natural content in the botanicals does not cause any side effects on the human body; instead enrich the body with nutrients and other useful minerals. The cosmetics, to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is defined as articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance. The cosmetic does not come under the preview of drug license.⁽⁴⁾ The herbal cosmetics are the preparations containing phytochemical from a variety of botanical sources, which influences the functions of skin and provide nutrients necessary for the healthy skin or hair.

The natural herbs and their products when used for their aromatic value in cosmetic preparation are termed as herbal cosmetics. There is common belief that chemical based cosmetics are harmful to the skin and an increased awareness among consumers for herbal products triggered the demand for natural products and natural extracts in cosmetics preparations. The increased demand for the natural product has created new avenues in cosmeceutical market. The Drug and Cosmetics Act specify that herbs and essential oils used in cosmetics must not claim to penetrate beyond the surface layers of the skin nor should have any therapeutic effect.⁽⁵⁾ The legal requirement and the regulatory procedures for herbal cosmetics are same as that for other chemical ingredients used in cosmetic formulations.^(6-8)

The requirements for the basic skin care

a) Cleansing agent, which remove the dust, dead cells and dirt that chokes the pores on the skin. Some of the common cleansers include vegetable oils like coconut, sesame and palm oil.

b) Use of Toners: The toners help to tighten the skin and keep it from being exposed to many of the toxins that are floating in the air or other environmental pollutants. Some of the herbs used as toners are witch hazel, geranium, sage, lemon, ivy burdock and essential oils.

c) Moisturizing: The moisturizing helps the skin to become soft and supple. Moisturizing shows a healthy glow and are less prone to aging. Some of the herbal moisturizers include vegetable glycerin, sorbitol, rose water, jojoba oil, aloe vera and iris. The herbal remedies used for special skin problems ⁽⁹⁾

Herbalists today, believe to help people build their good health with the help of natural sources. Herbs are considered to be food rather than medicine because they're complete, all-natural and pure, as nature intended. When herbs are taken, the body starts to get cleansed, it gets purifying itself. Unlike chemically synthesized, highly concentrated drugs that may produce many side effects, herbs can effectively realign the body's defenses. Herbs do not produce instant cures, but rather offer a way to put the body inpropertune with nature. For thousands of years, humans have used herbs. Herbs have been used in the following ways - In cooking for flavoring foods, as perfumes, as disinfectants, to protect us against germs, as medicines to heal when we are sick.⁽¹⁰⁾

The present work is an attempt made to develop a cream which can produce multipurpose effect. In cosmetics, Curcuma longa has an excellent potential for antiaging, cooling, healing and soothing to an irritated skin, whether caused by sun, or the effects of a cutaneous eruption. It has important role in whitening of skin.⁽¹¹⁾ Glycyrrhiza glabra is a medicinal plant with rich natural antioxidants. The best natural antioxidants in extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra are glycyrrhizin (glycyrrhizic acid), triterpene, saponins and flavonoids. Glycyrrhiza glabra extract are with therapeutic effects in skin whitening, skin depigmenting, skin lightening, antiaging, emollient, anti-acne and photo protection. ⁽¹²⁾

PLANT PROFILE

Table:1 Herb Profile

S.NO.	HERB (Part used)	BOTANICAL NAME	FAMILY	PURPOSE
1.	Vetiver – Vetiveria (Root)	Vetiveria zizanioides	Graminae	Improve Complextion of skin
2.	Saffron (Flower)	Crocus sativus	Iridaceae	Antiallergenic, Imparts Smoothness to skin
3.	Lodhra bark (Bark)	Symplocos racemosa	Symplocaceae	Anti inflammatory, treat skin disease like bleeding, oozing
4.	Red sandal (Bark)	Pterocarpus santalinus	Pterocarpus	Good for Skin, Anti –Acne
5.	Manjistha (branches)	Rubia cordifolia	Rubiaceae	Wound Healing, Lighten Pigmentation Marks
6.	Chengalva kostac (root)	Chamaecostus cuspidatus	Costaceae	Anti oxidant
7.	Indian bay leaf (leaf)	Cinnamomum tamala	Lauraceae	Anti-microbial property,analgesic Anti-inflammatory,anti-fungal,anti-oxidant
8.	Black turmeric ( rhizome)	Curcuma caesia	Zingiberaceae	Purify and nourish the skin, wound healing
9.	Mustard seeds	Brassica nigra Koch	Brassiceae	Anti-oxidant, removes impurities from face and nourishes
10.	Malathi flowers	Aganosoma hiyne	Apocynaceae	Anti-acne,anti septic, to treat skin blisters and redness
11.	Moduga flower	Butea monosperma	Fabaceae	Wound healing, increase tensile strength of skin
12.	Banyan vines (root)	Ficus Benghalensis	Moraceae	Anti-bacterial,anti-fungal
13.	Ceylon iron wood (stamens of flower)	Mesua ferrae	Guttiferae	Relieves swelling,edema
14.	Turmeric (rhizome)	Curcuma longa linn	Zingiberaceae	Anti microbial, Antioxidant
15.	Lotus (flower)	Nymphaeceae	Nelumbo nucifera	Moisturize the skin and youthful looking, Anti-oxidant,
16.	Liquorice (rhizome)	Glycerrhizia glabra	Leguminaceae	Anti inflammatory, Decrease Pigmentation marks
17.	Lakka	Laccifer lacca	Laccidae	Anti-inflammatory, pain  relief

MATERIALS AND METHODS:

Procurement of herbal material

The required herbal plant material was collected from the area of Bobbili local ayurvedic shop of Vizianagaram dist in A.P. during the month of November 2015. The herbal plant materials washed under running tap water to clean adhering dust material and then dried under shade. By means of mechanical and hand grinders like mortar and pestle the dried herbal plant materials are coarsely powdered. The coarse powders were then properly weighed and then used for extraction. The dried herbal plant materials were powdered by using mortar and pestle, sieved with muslin cloth and were stored in air tight container.

Extraction by Maceration                        

The term maceration comes from the Latin  macerare , meaning to soak . It is a process in which the properly comminuted drug is permitted to soak in the menstruum until the cellular structure is softened and penetrate by the menstrum and the soluble constituents are dissolved.

In maceration process the solid ingredients are placed in a stoppered container with 750mL of the prescribed solvent and allowed to stand for a period of at least 3 days in a warm place with frequent agitation, until soluble matter is dissolved. The mixture is filtered and, after most of the liquid has drained, the residue on the filter is washed with sufficient quantity of the prescribed solvent or solvent mixture, the filtrate are combined to produce 1000ml.Maceration usually conduted at a temperature of 15-20 C for 3 days or until the soluble matter is dissolved. ⁽¹²⁾

Water extract

About 28 gm of shade dried powders of herbal plant materials macerated with distilled water at room temperature for 24 hours by using maceration apparatus. After completion of extraction the solvent was removed by the heating.

Methanolic extract

About 28 gm of shade dried powders of herbal plant materials macerated with methanol at room temperature for 24 hours by using macerated apparatus. After After completion of extraction the solvent was removed by the heating.

Cream formulation

Binder or polymer material is added to the glycerin water to form liquid dispersion and show slightly swelling property. This liquid dispersion is added to the Polyherbal extract. To this mixture base and oils are added. Finally other ingredients like skin whitener and preservatives were added with continuous mixing.

Table:2 Cream Formulations

S.NO.	Ingredients	Category	F1	F2	F3	F4	F5
1.	Polyherbal Extract	A.P.I	2gm	2gm	2gm	2gm	2gm
2.	Glycerin	Moisturizer	1ml	1ml	2ml	2ml	2ml
3.	Proplyene glycol	Moisturizer +binder	1ml	1ml	2ml	2ml	2ml
4.	Zinc oxide	skin whitner	0.8gm	0.8gm	0.8gm	0.8gm	0.8gm
5.	Methylcelluiose	Polymer	2gm	-	2gm	-	-
6.	Sodium alginate	Polymer	-	2gm	-	-	-
7.	Ethyl cellulose	Polymer	-	-	-	2gm	-
8.	Carboxy methyl cellulose	Polymer	-	-	-	-	2gm
9.	Beeswax	Base	0.9gm	-	-	-	-
10.	Almond oil	Base	1gm	1gm	-	1gm	1gm
11.	Sesame oil	Base	-	-	1gm	-	-
12.	Sodium benzoate	preservative	0.1gm	0.1gm	0.1gm	0.1gm	0.1gm
13.	Purified water	Vehicle	q.s	q.s	q.s	q.s	q.s

Anti-microbial evaluation

Formulation (F1-F5)

The original were subjected for dilution as follows:- (5.0mg/ml);and the so prepared dilutions were inoculated and grown upon pour plate and streak plate techniques; For the purposes of nutrition, the media used is M.W.A(Muller Hinton Agar) plates. The growth of bacterial culture the Escherichia-coli and Pseudomonas areuginosa and Streptococcus aureus were checked.                       

Negative-control (containing M.W.A-media only) were also used and the whole obtained upon incubating at 37⁰c for 24 hours and the bacterial growth were observed after 24 hrs,48hours and followed by bacterial counting in each petriplates corresponding  creams/ointments from (1-5).

Medium composition

Table: 3 Medium composition

S.N0	COMPOSITION	GRAM/LITRE
1.	Beef extract	2g
2.	Casein hydroxylate	17.5 gm
3.	Starch	1.5gm
4.	Agar	17g
5.	Distilled water	Up to 1000ml

[P^H at 25⁰c is 7.3+ 0.1]

Preparation of M.H.A medium

Suspended about 38g of medium in one litre of distilled water.Heat with frequent agitation and boil for 1 min to completely dissolve the medium. Auto clave at 121⁰c for 15 min. Cool to room temperature.Pour cooled Muller Hunter agar (MHA) of (40-45) into sterile petri dishes on a level, horizontal surface to give uniform depth,Allow to cool to room temperature.                                                                            

Check for the final p^H=7.3+0.1 at 25⁰c.

Store the plates (if necessary)at 2-8⁰c.

The following tests were done for the evaluation of cream.

Organoleptic evaluation, Evaluation of pH of the Cream, Dye test, Homogeneity, Appearance, After feel, Type of smear, Removal, Irritancy test, Test for microbial growth in formulated creams, Stability studies

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS:

1. Organoleptic evaluation

The cream thus obtained was evaluated for its organoleptic properties like color, odour, and state. The appearance of the cream was judged by its color and roughness and graded.

Table 4: Organoleptic Properties

S.NO	Specification	Limits
1	state	Semisolid
2	Colour	Light Ash colour
3	Odour	Characteristic
4	Texture	Smooth

2. pH of the Cream

The pH of the cream was found to be in range of 6.2 to 7.19 which is good for skin pH. All the formulations of cream were shown pH nearer to skin required i.e. pH of F1-6.9, F2-7.19, F3-6.6,F4-6.8 and F5-6.2 But by the pH F3-F5 are have best pH than other formulations.

Table no 5: p^H of creams

S.NO.	Formulation no	P^HCream
1.	F1	6.9
2.	F2	7.19
3.	F3	6.6
4.	F4	6.8
5.	F5	6.2

Test for microbial growth in formulated creams

The formulated creams were inoculated on the plates of Muller Hinton agar media by streak plate method and a control was prepared by omitting the cream. The plates were placed in to the incubator and are incubated at 370C for 24 hours. After the incubation period, plates were taken out and check the microbial growth by comparing it with the control. Results are listed in Table 7.

Table 6: Microbial analysis of formulations Upon colony counter:

Cream	No. of. C.F.U’s (pour plate)	No. of. C.F.U’s (streak plate)
F1	25	20
F2	24-26	22
F3	14	12
F4	36	32
F5	21	20

C.F.U -Colony Forming Units

Table 7: Limits of microbial analysis

Microbial Load	Limits	Results
TMC	NMT  100	Complies
Limit tests: E. coli, S. aureus, Salmonella	No characteristic colonies found	Complies

Stability studies

Stability testing of drug products begins as a part of drug discovery and ends with the demise of the compound or commercial product. To assess the drug and formulation stability, stability studies were done. Each cream at 4 °C storage, room temperature, and 40 °C showed that the color changes to be faded. At 4 °C and 40 °C temperature, the colors were changed, especially on the temperature of 40°C, whereas at room temperature the color did not change  significantly. The results of  p^H measurements of each cream at 4 °C, room temperature and 40 °C were various, at 4 °C and 40°C temperature, the change in p^H leaded to a neutral p^H, at room temperature the p^H leaded to acidic p^H.

Stability test (mechanical)

In the mechanical test, cream samples were inserted into centrifuges at a speed of 3750 rpm for 5 h or 5000- 10000 rpm for 5h then observed whether a separation exist or not.

In mechanical method at centrifugation speed at 3000-4000 rpm,for 5 hours, the F1 and F3 shows good stability than other formulations.

Homogeneity

All formulations produce uniform distribution of extractsin cream. This was confirmed by visual appearance and bytouch.

After feel

Emolliency, slipperiness and amount of residue left after the application of fixed amount of cream was found good.

Dye test

Under microscopic observation the disperse globules appear red and the ground is colorless, the cream is O/W type. The dye test confirms that all formulations were O/W type emulsion cream.

Removal

All cream formulations applied on skin was easily removed by washing with tap water

Irritancy test

All formulations show no redness, edema, inflammation and irritation during irritancy studies. These formulations are safe to use for skin.

Appearance

When formulation were kept for long time, it found that no change in colour of cream.

DISCUSSION :

From above results it is concluded that on combining the extract of different herbs of different plant components in different ratio to get multipurpose effect such as whitening, antiwrinkle, antiaging and sunscreen effect on skin. As we know that it is not possible to increase the extent of efficiency of medicinal and cosmetic property of single plant extract, but by combining the different natural components can be possible to increase the efficacy of extracts. In this regard, we mixed the herbsto improve as well synergize the cosmetic properties of prepared products compare to individual herbs. Further research will carry out to check scientifically the synergistic action of selected formulation. These studies suggest that composition of extracts and base of cream of F1 and F3 are more stable up to 12 months and safe; it may produce synergistic action without side effects as this cream comprising of many natural substances.

Ø All cream formulations were O/W type emulsion confirmed by dye test.

Ø The pH of the creams was found to be in range of 6.2 to 7.19 which is good for skin pH and the pH of F3 which evaluated as stable formulation is having 6.6.

Ø Microbial evaluation for all cream formulation done, results existed within limits.

Ø Homogeneity was confirmed for all formulations by visual appearance and by touch, all formulations found to homogenous.

Ø All cream formulations applied on skin was easily removed by washing with tap water

Ø Appearance of cream formulation confirmed by observation as there is no change in color of creams when formulations were kept for long time.

Ø All formulations show no redness, edema, inflammation and irritation during irritancy studies. These formulations are safe to use for skin.

SUMMARY:

Table: 8 Summary

S.NO.	Parameter	F1	F2	F3	F4	F5
1.	Colour	Light ash colour	Light ash colour	Light ash colour	Light ash colour	Light ash colour
2.	Odour	Characteristic	Characteristic	Characteristic	Characteristic	Characteristic
3.	p^H	6.9	7.19	6.6	6.8	6.2
4.	Homogeneity	Satisfied	Satisfied	Satisfied	Satisfied	Satisfied
5.	Removal	Easely removal by tap water	Easely removal by tap water	Easely removal by tap water	Easely removal by tap water	Easely removal by tap water
6.	After feel	Emollient	Emollient	Emollient	Emollient	Emollient
7.	Irritancy test	No irritance on application. Safe for skin	No irritance on application. Safe for skin	No irritance on application. Safe for skin	No irritance on application. Safe for skin	No irritance on application. Safe for skin
8.	Cycling test	-	-	Good	Good	-
9.	Mechanical test	Good	-	Good	-	-

CONCLUSION:

By carried out different evaluation tests, finally we concluded that our poly herbal face cream (F3) used as cosmetic for beautifying skin without adverse effects at low cost.

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Received on 10.05.2017                    Accepted on 30.06.2017

©A&V Publications all right reserved

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 8(1): Jan.-June 2017 page 12-18

DOI: 10.5958/2321-5844.2017.00002.4